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Mike Stephenson
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 08:45 PM
dripping foam
Does anyone know how to stop .5lb foam from dripping so much? My crew has been spraying .5lb at 120 degrees with a probler p2, gusmer h20/30 pro. It just seems like they get alot of dripping when they spray the roof deck. It makes for alot of clean up. They did an attic the other day and the floor of the attic was completely covered with drippings. Any suggestions?
Luke Kujacznski
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 08:51 PM
guys correct me if I am wrong but most of the time dripping or excessive sagging means that your material is to cold. Try raising your temps in 5 degree increments.
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 09:25 PM
You need a faster speed foam, it appears. That will kick faster and gel sooner.
Mike Stephenson
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 10:09 PM
Olger,
I've never heard of a "faster speed foam". Could you please elaborate.
Posted: Oct 03, 2007 10:37 PM
STFI,

Olger is referring to the type of system. Such as summer which would be a slower rise system to compensate for higher ambient temps. a winter system would be a faster system. You can compensate a little by adjusting your temps and pressures. My first attempt would be to turn up your primary heat and drop your static pressure slightly. You want to be sure that your chemical is warm enough also. I myself recently had a cool night sneak up on me and it caused for a day of less then ideal spraying.
Mike Stephenson
Posted: Oct 04, 2007 07:23 AM
Thanks for the info. What do you normally have your static pressure set on? I'm not sure what the crew has ours set on, I know the temp they have been using is 120 degrees, I'll have them kick that up.
Thanks again.
clint moore
Posted: Oct 04, 2007 01:27 PM
Foam temperatures are going to vary depending on your enviroment temperature. 120 degrees is a good starting point,but you will need to determine if you need to increase or decrease your temp by the way the foam is reacting. Normally if your foam is not setting up fast enough you need to increase the temps,usally by 5-10 degrees. Just as like in the mornings when it is cooler you need higher heat but in the afternoons when it has warmed up you can turn them down because the reaction time is now faster.
Larry Melito
Posted: Oct 04, 2007 10:15 PM
are you mixing the drums before you shoot?
Posted: Oct 04, 2007 10:22 PM
spraying overhead is a bitch..
when spraying open cell keep your temps as hot as you can,,just to the point of "reversion" or sagging back...heat it to this point and reduce temps by 2 degree increments till it doesnt revert..realize that this temp will change as the ambient conditions change throughout the day,,and even things like sunlight exposure will affect the ability to spray with out dripping.adjust the temps as needed...it only takes a second...let the foam tell you what to do...as most overhead work is 24" oc turn up your pressure a bit and enjoy the chance to "back away a bit" from the substrate...
work it baby,,,work it...
got something for you to try...when you have built to maximum "cream without blow off" and you have really hogged it on,,and you stand back and see it start to make the "drippy drippy sag" try a real fast..short..half pass upstroke to push the "saggers" back into the rising bun,,,works for me,,,but im a hillbilly foamer...

demand fresh foam for overhead work,,once this stuff gets old (3mths or greater)(compounded by cold)it drips more and more...

i have recently tried "spike-your-own" system and it worked well,,but it has been warm too,,so the odds were in their favor...i havent had any sit around for longer than 2 weeks when catalyzed so i am unsure how it will work,lets say,,2 months down the road or so,,,more to come...

(time to get out the band heaters and look at the cords and plugs and give em a good look-see...the corn ears are dropping and there is soon to be frost on the pumpkins...)

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