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Posted: Sep 24, 2009 01:37 PM
E-30
I spray 2# cc with an E-30 and can't keep the pressures equal. B side instantly goes 200-300 lbs above the A side. I have sprayed 5 different kinds of foam and all seems to do the same. It is not blockage in the gun or screens. I have cleaned and checked everything many times. I have been spraying for 8 years so I am not a beginer. Tech support keeps telling me it is because of the higher viscosity of the B materials. I am not buying it because I still have an H-II and the pressures always stay right on. I use both machines almost daily. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks for your help.
Terrance Harris
Posted: Sep 24, 2009 03:28 PM
Have you checked you gauges for accuracy?
Posted: Sep 24, 2009 04:11 PM
I dont think that it is the gauges. When I turn the machine on A & B will both pressure up the same. The pressure changes as soon as I start spraying. I could put on a new gauge just to check it out.
Posted: Sep 24, 2009 05:46 PM
When was the last time that you rebuilt your A side pump.

My E-20 did it for about 3 months and it that time, I kept on using more B than A.

I finally rebuilt (All it is is a few o-rings, teflon washers and metal balls) and my machine immediately starting holding equal pressures.

I think that I sprayed about a hundred or so sets before I started having the same problem.

Goodluck!


Steve
clint moore
Posted: Sep 24, 2009 07:26 PM
How old is your E-30? Approx. how many kits or cycles has it ran?
Does the A side continue to drop and the B side climb or does the B side hold steady and the A drops.
SprayFoamSupply.com
Posted: Sep 24, 2009 09:24 PM
Slip, yes the viscosities of the materials are different and usually the B side runs 50-100 higher than the A if you are running your preheaters at the same temp. You could be having a heat issue. When spraying, what is the actual temp of your block heaters? Have you recently changed a thermocouple or temp control module or board? Have you recalibrated your thermocouples? If the B side is not heating properly and it is running 20-30 degrees cooler than the A, this could cause this pressure diff. How old is your e-30? How many watt heaters? Have you ohmed out your heater rods to make sure they are all working? Call me if you want.

George 603.348.8880
Posted: Sep 25, 2009 06:02 AM
georgeous george is right on....
hey man this means you are hammerin fluid thru the machine and the the heaters "cant keep up" as well...and the viscosity diff will usually manifest itself as a slight pressure diff,,,75-200lbs pendin on conditions,,,
there is no requirement to run your temps at equal settings,,,in fact i prefer not to cook my iso's with any foam system,,,nuther topic me thinks,,,anyway,,,try increasing the temp 10 degrees on the side that is low,,you should see things come together,,,as the day comes up and things get warmed up and flowin good you may need to re-adjust,,,but you probably do that anyway,,,
yeppers on the h11 or pro's not being so susceptable to this,,,not being a techydude i would guess that it has to do with surface area in the heaters,,,

gorgeous,,would you care to detail the recalibration procedure,,,

ps: whats an ohm???,,,are you like meditating now george?
Posted: Sep 25, 2009 08:39 PM
Hey Dude

Ohm is what they say during a seyonce (sp). Ohmmm.....

LOL
Steve Bednarski
Posted: Sep 26, 2009 10:01 PM
Slip, I have the same problems. My 2# will spray anywhere between 150-200 lbs higher than my iso side. My machine is about three years old and I thought about rebuilding, but it didn't fit in my case because when I spray the open cell, I am dead nuts on, can't even see a difference in the needles.
I have been all over the temp ranges, and have tried all new internals on the gun(fusion ap), to no avail.
So, if anyone has any ideas, it seems like many people could use them.
Good luck, and let me know if you find anything out.
SprayFoamSupply.com
Posted: Sep 28, 2009 09:09 PM
To recalibrate your E-30.

Let the machine sit off for at least 12 hours. Make sure that the FTS is in the same temp room as the reactor. Hold down the F button on the display while you turn the unit's main power on. Before turning the heaters or hose heat on, check the actual temps. They should be within a degree or two. Fire it up and get to work!

Slip, did you have any luck?

George
Posted: Sep 29, 2009 05:30 AM
"but it didn't fit in my case because when I spray the open cell, I am dead nuts on, can't even see a difference in the needles."

the open cell is less viscous,,h2o based resin,,look at the numbers on the tech data sheet,,,

if you have an aversion to setting the resin temp higher than the iso temp on the machine,,,
put a band heater on the resin drum and give it a gentle heat,,,but i would do it on the machine..

remember this stuff thinks its cold at 60 degrees and the effects of the viscosity difference start to become apparrent,,usually manifested by this pressure difference,,,

run the resin temp up 15 degrees or so and you should see it come closer to balance,,,yes,,you will probably have to dial things down as the equipment,,the fluids,,and the day warm up...

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