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Trey Gibson
Posted: Apr 08, 2006 10:20 AM
Air Conditioning
How many of you have an air conditioner in your truck or trailer for the 2# foam? It boiling over is a real ass whip.
Ryan Rhoads
Posted: Apr 08, 2006 06:05 PM
I have an off the shelf unit that was designed to fit in a window. I mounted it in the dividing wall of my 32ft. goosneck trailer. It kept the back area where the foam is cool in 110 degree heat, the problem that I did have is the heaters on my air compressor motor kept tripping. I need to install a fan in the front so I can circulate air through more effeciently. I tried setting a fan in the door but that did not work. If you buy an ac unit and mount it in a tongue pull trailer with one side outside you should be fine.
Posted: Apr 09, 2006 07:55 AM
no ac yet,,need to add to the rig..
the boiling over is a bitch.,,
how are we supposed to go down the road with this stuff frothing out of the drum pumps adapter? doesnt our industry care? what would the EPA and the DOT think about this situation?
how would the fiberglass/cellulose industry use this info to beat the product into the ground...
(they are looking, and they are "reacting" to our industry presence...not peacefully i might add)
i believe it is the industry just did not put much into the r&d of the new 245. let the market drive its development...repeat after me...
i am a guinea pig and i am paying >35% more for the privledge....

does anyone think it strange that the industry "newsletters" appeared stating KEEP IT COOL about 2 months after the heat hit the cornfield? lets see.... keep it warm in the winter, keep it cool in the summer...spray only from 50 degrees or greater...how the hell are we supposed to stay in business?

i had a shippment come last august that looked like little footballs in the back of the semi...
"he didnt have his reefer on" was the official response from the supplier,,uh,,,they shipped in a non-reefered box truck...you (the supplier) arrange for the shipment..
the driver about pooped his drawers when he saw the drums in his trailer..."what if they burst while im going down the road?" was his statement... what if,,,,indeed....should be great for our industry..."mobile chemical spills"
so i got to go down the road with the genset running to keep the AC's running so the mechanical agitation of the transportation process and the heat dont turn me into to a mobile toxic waste land...and the DOT's eye of affection/attention...
re: drums with pressure venting bungs...if they vent pressure (yes they do,,they do work)then you are loosing blowing agent and subsequently yield...( remember the "s******salesman" saying that the "new blend is a little less yeild than the old 141s") rap a turd in a perty wrapping paper and it still is a turd on the inside...

ramblin gamblin man......
Posted: Apr 09, 2006 08:12 AM
benD,,enjoy your website,,,nice...

consider the btu's you are generating in the powerhouse...compressor,,,generator..lots-0-btu's
you will need lots of ventilation to keep things cool...lots of ventilation...
if you have a freindly HVAC person,,ask him to calculate/estimate the btu's produced ( i bet it is in the 250K range) and how many square foot of vent you need to exchange an adequate amount of air....
i mounted 2 roof vents in the power house,,then mounted a $50 gable vent fan from Lowes under the front vent (right over the compressor) to encourage air exhaust...honestly,,it still aint enough..and we run with the door open at least partially most times...probably need another 3x3 louvered vent to provide adequate "makeup air"
i had both vents open and the fan whirling and with the door closed at ~70 degrees ambient it achieved a whopping 149 degrees in the forward compartment before we saw it and opened the doors and cooled her down..not a good situation for the mechanicals,,,and think about the moisture potential in the compressor lines...damn...
ventilate is the key...
(i have placed a Large fan at the door in the dog days of last summer to help move air too..)

good to see you guys post,,keep em coming..
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 09, 2006 11:32 AM
A healthy amen regarding the dumb 245fa. Progress?
Regress!

WAY too expensive
Boils too low 59°
Can't use plastic drums
Slightly less R-value
Have to use thinner lifts (2-3")
Surface is friable for 24-hours

The only modest advantage is that the roofing grade is stronger (compressive psi). That's a mighty thin advantage. Perhaps that will translate into greater dimensional stability. 5-years will tell the tale in the roofing arena.


Btw, we don't air condition. Don't intend to, at this point.


gcw
Ryan Rhoads
Posted: Apr 09, 2006 08:45 PM
I hate to promote one foam over another but we were having problems with football shaped drums but we went to F.E. foam and Gaco and have really good success so far. Our average temperature here is around 90 degrees in the dog days of summer. So far we have really good success with both of these brands. The one major problem we did have with one of them, I don't remeber wich one, but our diaphram drum pump would not pump it in the 120 degree heat. That is why we added the AC unit. Other than the ventalation problem in the front everything else has worked great. I have experianced major problems with coverage in the winter months, even spraying at around 50-60 degrees.
Posted: Apr 09, 2006 11:31 PM
gcw..how are you going down the road with this stuff in elevated temps???are you exposed to +90 degree ambients?

benD...i didnt experience the frothing till about 92degrees in the trailer...90 was ok 91 was ok then,,,froth.,..

it seems the manufacturers were lowering the vapor pressures in the drums with each formulation...i hope for safer packaging this year...
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 11, 2006 01:21 PM
NCFI sells a kit that pressurizes the drum at 1-psi. This prevents boiling.

Hassle, yes, but keep the agent in.

gcw
Posted: Apr 23, 2006 12:51 AM
olger..
but this stuff is pressureizing itself...
read: football drums
it would seem that keeping a well sealed drum pump/bung adapter (gasket) would allow pressure to build in the drum,,,certainly greater than the 3-5psi "pressurization" kits...and thus should be as effective,,

????
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Apr 23, 2006 11:53 AM
You're right. If the pump is screwed in place, that should be adequate.

However, the theory is that pressurized liquids have a higher boiling point (radiators case in point). Perhaps the 3-5 psi raises the boiling point so that it won't boil at all. I'll ask around.

Thanks for your response,

gcw

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