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Apex .5 non-agitated platinum Post New Topic | Post Reply
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Josh Lowman
Posted: Jun 19, 2007 02:38 PM
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Apex .5 non-agitated platinum
Customer wants to insulate a attic space in a metal building. Was wondering what .5 lb. product would work well. My rig is not set up for recirculating or agitating only sprayed 2.lb. in past. Apex .5 platinum looks to be a good fit. Has anyone used it and is it a good application. Its a 6000 sq. ft. space with corrugated metal ceiling. Wood trusses with soffit and ridge vents. Of course I have to try my best to compete with filterglass prices. So I can spray the flat ceiling lid only. Any and all sugestions needed.
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Posted: Jun 19, 2007 10:35 PM
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re: recirc setup...at start up while warming up heats...take your hose/hose block to an unused bung hole on your drum...position it over the hole...slowly open manual valve(careful..there could be some pressure behind it)..allow fluid to flow into hole and bring up transfer pump...DO NOT TURN ON PROPORTIONER...only the heaters...(heats,,ok...pressure,,,noway)...allow fluid to pump via the transfer pump thru the supply line to the proportioner to be heated (not pressureized)and pumped thru the hose out to the block and back into the drum to be...recirculated again,,, i hold mine over the bung hole by placeing a 24" adjustable wrench(big heavy moefoe)over the hose/block to firmly keep it from being moved while we ingress/egress with our daily schtuff... necessity is the mother of invention... IMPORTANT: if you heat and recirc the resin side,,,the Aside will build pressure just sittin there(mr science says heat sumthin in a confined space will speed up dem molecules and you gets pressure...or sumpin like that..)so,,,to ensure not going off ratio at the start you need to relieve this pressure back to "0"..so you position the hose block over an unused bung on the A drum and SLOWLY crack the manual valve to release the pressure...bleed it down to zero which is where the resin pressure should be...when it is cold i recirc the Aside too for a bit... i personally have no experience with the apex products,,but i hear they are good products and the people are fine folks to deal with... you can not compete with fiberglass PRICE,,dont try,,wont happen...CHEAP IS CHEAP...the consumer will get what they pay for... with the consumers energy costs over the last 3 months having risin 71% (when amortorized over a year)(source:bob brinkers: "money talk") they now dont want cheap... educate them,,,about u value...about air infiltration,,about the significance of the ability of expanding foams(not frothing crap,,swells at best,,celluslose is a better $$ value) to accomadate the cracks and penetrations inherent to the building process,,, we have the ability to reduce our energy bills,,, we have the ability to reduce our dependance on foreign oil,,,or domestic for that matter... we have the ability to assist in the creation of healthy living environments... we have the ability to afford design flexibilty while maintaining good building science.... I HAVE A DREAM!!!!!! EPLURIBUS FOAM-EM!!! (close eyes and envision fireworks and stuff :) )... sorry man,,you got me goin,,,hope that helps with the recirc... oh yeah,,,for the cheap ass-consumer...give em a bid to seal the lid with 3" or so open cell foam...recommend they follow over top with some cheap crap to get "really high r values" (cynical here bud)...reinforce they are not getting the full thermal performance of a full foam system but will see "some" increased performance of the filterglass or cellumulch cheap crap they got for "r value"....cheap application for the cheap ass-customer... get in,,get out...get paid...fast and furious ....it works... |
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Terry Adams
Posted: Jun 19, 2007 11:22 PM
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Apex Platinum .5# is an excellent product. I spray a lot of it on the Gulf coast along with their other products. It comes as a 3 part system. A,B and C that you mix the day before you spray. It was a great product before as a 2 part system but since they switched to the 3 part it sprays even better with great yields. Stir before you spray and you won’t have to agitate. |
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Posted: Jun 19, 2007 11:52 PM
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never heard of a 3 part foam. please explain a little more detail about mixing the day before and what is the part c. just curious as heck. |
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Terry Adams
Posted: Jun 20, 2007 12:26 AM
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The C part is a catalyst package that comes in a 5 gallon bucket. That way when you mix it with the resin, the foam is as fresh as it can get. The fresher the foam the greater the yield. You can set on it, mix it the day before and not worry about how old your foam is. It sprays really nice. The guys at Apex are doing a great job making my life easier and more profitable… |
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Michael Flander
Posted: Jun 21, 2007 09:44 AM
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Depending on the gun you are using, you can set up a self contained hose recirc setup for less than $500. All you have to do is bolt the gun manifold up and walk away. Terry: Catalyst package that you mix in with the resin? I assume this means you are putting the part "c" in part "b"? Just out of curiosity, what happens if you forget to mix the part c in, and how long are the sets good for after you mix part c in? Can you give us an estimate on the increase in yield compared to the older 2 part system? Thanks, Mike Flander |
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Thomas Kasper
Posted: Jun 21, 2007 10:44 PM
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My understanding is... The iso has a 1 year shelf life and the resin has a 3 month shelf life FROM WHEN the catalyst is added. Some foam suppliers hold out the catalyst and let us add it when we are ready to spray. I think it is a good idea. It gives us fresher foam. We can order more foam to get a better deal without worying about a 3 month shelf life. |
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Terry Adams
Posted: Jun 26, 2007 02:18 PM
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Thats correct, c goes into b. If you forget it you won't get much of a reaction if any when you spray. It hasn't happened to me yet. Apex says 2 months is the max after the catalyst goes in. I'd say I'm getting about 2000 bd ft more. Between 16,000 to 18,000 total bd ft. sorry about the delay in responding, been on vacation. |
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Josh Lowman
Posted: Jun 26, 2007 06:01 PM
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Are you spraying sidewalls, attic spaces or both. I have not sprayed any .5 lb. mat. yet. Up here in the north its mostly 2lb. c.c. And only done a handful of jobs. Still knocking on doors to get work. Its a hard sell most people only seem to care about cost. The long run savings doesnt seem to matter to them. They just want to throw up houses. And get on to the next one. So what is the foam like spongy. Do you trim with a saw or air trimmer. |
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Terry Adams
Posted: Jun 26, 2007 10:17 PM
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Yep, we spray walls and roof deck or down on the ceiling if they don't want it on the roof deck. We spray about 50/50 open or closed cell down here. Same down here, majority of builders could care less what the utilities cost, they just want to throw it up, make it thru the warranty and move on. You have to get to the homeowners to make sales. The foam does have substance to it. It’s very firm and the cells are tight, you can pull it out in chucks by hand. It reminds me of cotton. A lot of customers want it because it runs about 25% less then closed cell with the same r-value. If it’s a 2x4 wall we have to trim it flush. You can get a hand saw for foam if you’re not doing that much open cell. I tried the air trimmer and gave up on that, it’s an air hog and will really work your air compressor hard. I use a reciprocating saw. You can take the hand saw blade and grind it to fit the reciprocating saw. I think you will like the way it sprays. |
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Lane Hogstad
Posted: Jun 27, 2007 01:45 PM
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SO dak give me a call 605-880-1990 You too Terry. Lane |
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Josh Lowman
Posted: Jun 27, 2007 02:22 PM
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How is .5lb. the same R-value as c.c. foams. The highest R I've seem for open cell is R-5 and thats a 1.2lb. . Most Closed cells are R6.5. And .5lb. is R3.8 that won't fit in a 2x4 wall for an R-19. I quess thats what I've been finding out, If my findings are wrong please shed some light. |
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Terry Adams
Posted: Jun 27, 2007 09:43 PM
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I should have put “with the equivalent r-value” instead of "with the same r-value". 3" of closed cell or 5.5" of open cell. Sorry for the confusion. |
