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Author	Comments
Linerman Posted: Sep 03, 2013 07:18 PM	Best gun cleaner? I want to know if there is anything out there that is stronger than dynasolve(cu-6) for removing cured iso? I've used the stuff for years and works great, but sometimes it doesn't quite get all the hardened iso which usually requires aggressive brushes or picking at it. I also use an ultrasonic cleaner that has heating capabilities as well which works phenomenally but I find myself still trying to get all the little stuff off.
SPRAYFOAM GODDESS Posted: Sep 06, 2013 09:18 AM	N-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDONE, need chemical resistant gloves not Nitrile, will eat your skin.
Linerman Posted: Sep 06, 2013 07:44 PM	Where might I be able to find this stuff? This stuff won't destroy the black finish on the Fusion AP will it? I'm just wondering if there is anything out there that will dissolve the hardened iso completely to where all I have to do is pull the gun parts out from soaking then maybe give it a quick wash with thinner and it's all clean. No brushing gelled up iso off or picking the hardened stuff left behind. Maybe it's wishful thinking.
Linerman Posted: Sep 07, 2013 10:29 AM	So after looking through some msds sheets that N-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDONE appears to be the main ingredient in dynasolve. So I'm guessing using something that pure would be stronger, but my next question is would I even be able to get ahold of that type of chemical in its raw form so to speak of?
SPRAYFOAM GODDESS Posted: Sep 10, 2013 08:17 PM	Emailed ya, call me for details - will give ya some help. Sold in 5 gallon pails only.
SPRAYFOAM GODDESS Posted: Sep 10, 2013 08:17 PM
steve reddick Posted: Aug 13, 2014 09:39 PM	Hey! I use "SPF ISO" made by spf depot. You can get a gallon for just under $100 and it works great! I use their SPF 6, which is I assume a generic dynasolve (not sure of the active ingredients, but I'm sure they can tell you) to melt cured foam from the outer shell of the gun or the internals if there's cured foam inside. Using this combo has proven very effective in making our guns look and function brand spanking new! No heat is necessary for either of these chemicals and can dissolve the gunk off in as little as 30 minutes making cleaning in the field a breeze with little down time. A gallon of either of these products will clean your gun about 200 times. I don't work for spf depot, Im just a fan of their solvents.
Dakotafoamboy Posted: Aug 02, 2016 02:25 AM	Glycol ethylene in a deep fryer at 350 to 375 degrees for 3-4 hours. Parts come out looking like new but it will take the color off your fusion. But who cares because your gun parts are clean and you didn't have to spend a rediculous amount of money on Dynisol
Rodger Posted: Aug 03, 2016 02:37 PM	You want to be very careful when using Gycol-either that way. The fumes it creates can be highly toxic and you may get mistaken as a Meth lab............
Dakotafoamboy Posted: Aug 23, 2016 12:44 PM	That's why you do it outside and you don't open the lid while it's hot. Use a round deep frier with a glass lid. Don't stand over it and breath in the fumes. If its boiling and putting out a big cloud, turn the temp down very slightly. If it isn't bubbling A little, turn up the temp slightly. And once again, don't open the lid when it's hot, don't breath the fumes, and do it outside. I start mine at night on a timer and then by morning it's all cooled down and ready to rinse.
LoneStarSprayFoam Posted: Jul 09, 2017 10:34 PM	Although I am a great fan of SPFDepot as well, I have found the same solvents they sell but for half the price. You can go straight to VersaFlex and they'll sell you their DZolv for ~$50/gal and VersaFlush for about the same. If you use a heated ultrasonic like Linerman up top said your gun parts will look brand new every time.
beringstar Posted: Sep 12, 2017 05:47 AM	Linerman. NMP works extremely well on cured ISO in most applications. You asked where to get it. There are differences in chemicals in the marketplace. We go to a large wholesale chemical retailer for our product and buy it in 55 gallon drums. And then pump it out of that into small containers as needed. For Gun parts soaking it will always do the job. If you have some major tough problems in oriffices of transfer pumps or other hard to reach areas, it may take repeated efforts of soaking and mechanical effort with dental picks or different tools to reduce the buildup. Sometimes you have to just MacGyver your way to the finish line using an assortment of stuff. Some here have mentioned heating things. I have never had to do that but it may be a valid option. I Don't advise touching NMP unless you have too. I use Folgers plastic containers for soaking. I get a 5 gallon paint strainer and put it in the container, hooked over the edge. the parts go in there. When I need them I lift them out and put them on the lid and sort thru them with some good gloves on, blow them off with compressed air, and then do a fine tune detail with the right tools as needed, then build the gun.
beringstar Posted: Sep 12, 2017 05:50 AM	NMP will work best on cured ISO. with wet ISO, it congeals into a jelly. You'll have to experiment with how that works for you but I usually pull my screens and take apart my side seals and blow them off with a little break cleaner before I soak them. I try to clean my check valve screens with break cleaner and air blast and reuse if they are good. I don't soak them ever in nmp or the get ruined immediately

Author

Comments

Linerman

Posted: Sep 03, 2013 07:18 PM

Best gun cleaner?

I want to know if there is anything out there that is stronger than dynasolve(cu-6) for removing cured iso? I've used the stuff for years and works great, but sometimes it doesn't quite get all the hardened iso which usually requires aggressive brushes or picking at it.

I also use an ultrasonic cleaner that has heating capabilities as well which works phenomenally but I find myself still trying to get all the little stuff off.

SPRAYFOAM GODDESS

Posted: Sep 06, 2013 09:18 AM

N-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDONE, need chemical resistant gloves not Nitrile, will eat your skin.

Linerman

Posted: Sep 06, 2013 07:44 PM

Where might I be able to find this stuff? This stuff won't destroy the black finish on the Fusion AP will it?

I'm just wondering if there is anything out there that will dissolve the hardened iso completely to where all I have to do is pull the gun parts out from soaking then maybe give it a quick wash with thinner and it's all clean. No brushing gelled up iso off or picking the hardened stuff left behind. Maybe it's wishful thinking.

Linerman

Posted: Sep 07, 2013 10:29 AM

So after looking through some msds sheets that N-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDONE appears to be the main ingredient in dynasolve. So I'm guessing using something that pure would be stronger, but my next question is would I even be able to get ahold of that type of chemical in its raw form so to speak of?

SPRAYFOAM GODDESS

Posted: Sep 10, 2013 08:17 PM

Emailed ya, call me for details - will give ya some help. Sold in 5 gallon pails only.

SPRAYFOAM GODDESS

Posted: Sep 10, 2013 08:17 PM

steve reddick

Posted: Aug 13, 2014 09:39 PM

Hey! I use "SPF ISO" made by spf depot. You can get a gallon for just under $100 and it works great! I use their SPF 6, which is I assume a generic dynasolve (not sure of the active ingredients, but I'm sure they can tell you) to melt cured foam from the outer shell of the gun or the internals if there's cured foam inside. Using this combo has proven very effective in making our guns look and function brand spanking new! No heat is necessary for either of these chemicals and can dissolve the gunk off in as little as 30 minutes making cleaning in the field a breeze with little down time. A gallon of either of these products will clean your gun about 200 times. I don't work for spf depot, Im just a fan of their solvents.

Dakotafoamboy

Posted: Aug 02, 2016 02:25 AM

Glycol ethylene in a deep fryer at 350 to 375 degrees for 3-4 hours. Parts come out looking like new but it will take the color off your fusion. But who cares because your gun parts are clean and you didn't have to spend a rediculous amount of money on Dynisol

Rodger

Posted: Aug 03, 2016 02:37 PM

You want to be very careful when using Gycol-either that way.
The fumes it creates can be highly toxic and you may get mistaken as a Meth lab............

Dakotafoamboy

Posted: Aug 23, 2016 12:44 PM

That's why you do it outside and you don't open the lid while it's hot. Use a round deep frier with a glass lid. Don't stand over it and breath in the fumes. If its boiling and putting out a big cloud, turn the temp down very slightly. If it isn't bubbling A little, turn up the temp slightly. And once again, don't open the lid when it's hot, don't breath the fumes, and do it outside. I start mine at night on a timer and then by morning it's all cooled down and ready to rinse.

LoneStarSprayFoam

Posted: Jul 09, 2017 10:34 PM

Although I am a great fan of SPFDepot as well, I have found the same solvents they sell but for half the price. You can go straight to VersaFlex and they'll sell you their DZolv for ~$50/gal and VersaFlush for about the same.
If you use a heated ultrasonic like Linerman up top said your gun parts will look brand new every time.

beringstar

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 05:47 AM

Linerman. NMP works extremely well on cured ISO in most applications. You asked where to get it. There are differences in chemicals in the marketplace. We go to a large wholesale chemical retailer for our product and buy it in 55 gallon drums. And then pump it out of that into small containers as needed. For Gun parts soaking it will always do the job. If you have some major tough problems in oriffices of transfer pumps or other hard to reach areas, it may take repeated efforts of soaking and mechanical effort with dental picks or different tools to reduce the buildup. Sometimes you have to just MacGyver your way to the finish line using an assortment of stuff. Some here have mentioned heating things. I have never had to do that but it may be a valid option.

I Don't advise touching NMP unless you have too. I use Folgers plastic containers for soaking. I get a 5 gallon paint strainer and put it in the container, hooked over the edge. the parts go in there. When I need them I lift them out and put them on the lid and sort thru them with some good gloves on, blow them off with compressed air, and then do a fine tune detail with the right tools as needed, then build the gun.

beringstar

Posted: Sep 12, 2017 05:50 AM

NMP will work best on cured ISO. with wet ISO, it congeals into a jelly. You'll have to experiment with how that works for you but I usually pull my screens and take apart my side seals and blow them off with a little break cleaner before I soak them. I try to clean my check valve screens with break cleaner and air blast and reuse if they are good. I don't soak them ever in nmp or the get ruined immediately

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