Q&A Forums
Fusion or GAP Pro Post New Topic | Post Reply
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Trey Gibson
Posted: Jul 19, 2006 07:38 AM
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Fusion or GAP Pro
We currently use a GAP Pro and are thinking about switching to the fusion on the next set up we get in a couple of weeks. We have to buy a ridiculous amount of parts for the GAP and wonder if the fusion is any better. Which do you prefer and why? Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Posted: Jul 19, 2006 08:19 PM
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Foamer 1 Im considering the same, We seem to blow through mixing chambers. However with the Gusmer/Graco merger I have been told the new parts will be made using a higher grade tool steel. |
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Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Jul 19, 2006 08:44 PM
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The P2 Probler is worth a glance too. gcw |
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Ryan Rhoads
Posted: Jul 20, 2006 07:15 PM
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I have a fusion air purge and it seams to be a great gun. I clean it daily and have bought one mix chamber in the last 18 months. I don't know how many sets of foam I have used but it has been a bunch. The only thing that seams to need replacing often is the damn O-rings. So if you get one get a bunch of extra O-rings. I have found that putting a small amount of grease on the O-ring before putting the gun together helps. |
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Posted: Jul 20, 2006 08:27 PM
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benD...i too dismantle the gun each day,,,i soak the parts overnite in gun solvent... i blow the parts dry in the morning, any "drift" on the air cap or the front retaining bezel(?)comes right off,,sometimes a gentle nudge with some steel wool helps... i too have not replaced chambers for quite some time,,and i think your 18 months is about right... i have found that it helps to change the chamber every 4 hours or so when "hammering on" particularly when doing overhead or interior work and the gun is subjected to drift... i believe that the chamber gets a bit of residue that is not very effectively removed via the drill bit..so i change em...and the gun throws a happy pattern....and i'm a happy foamdude :) i really have not had problems with the orings,,,when i first got the gun i did.(that is because i am a mechanical moron,but i am getting better as foaming/time goes on).but since i quit greasing it and dismantle it i really dont have much problems,,,grease on the orings really helps when they are new...i keep a 6 pack of each on hand just to be sure i got em... i have the most problems with the hose block valves,,,man,,,i have gone thru many,,,they start to leak when they get even a small amount of drift on the shaft, and it seems to trash the internal orings...bad design,,,at least for residential use,,,drift is a way of life,,the equipment should be built to accomadate it... the probler valves look like someone put some thought into em...do they hold up olger?.... it is hard to qualify whether the fusion is superior to other guns,,, thats kinda like tellin a harley rider that your honda is just as good,, it is human nature to believe that what we use or do is the best,,,and well that should be.... so... find a gun that works for you...give it a fair trial...dont blame the gun for your inexperience,,,demand service/instruction after the sale... |
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Trey Gibson
Posted: Jul 21, 2006 07:40 AM
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1 Mixixing chamber in the last 18 months? Good God, we have gone through at least 5 this year! So you use the Fusion, Foamdude? If you foam up the gun don't you have to pry out the screens and rings with a flat head screw driver? |
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John Shockney
Posted: Jul 21, 2006 08:33 AM
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The P-2 has few o rings, eazy to take apart, shut off valves work good, only complant is the air shut off overspray shure screws it up. I have to spray it with greese and or cover it with plastic wrap. A graco dist. rep told me the GlasCraft P-2 is the best and eazyist to clean gun on the market. hope this helps Airpro |
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Posted: Jul 21, 2006 03:59 PM
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ok guys's...here we go (probably should not tell this and sell it as a kit for 20 times what its worth like most all of the other stuff we use,, hee hee...) i get little to no drift on the gun body or even the fluid head section...heres how... i go to the local medical supply house and buy a box of 2" stockinette ( the stuff that goes under casts)(actually i buy a 6 pack at a time so i only go once a year) there is 25 yards of this in one box... once the gun is assembled i cut off a 8" or so piece of stockinette(great for lineing the rolling pin too if your into pie crusts) and feed it over the nose of the gun and onto the front of the gun body... i feeed it back to just in front of the grease zerk and the air purge adjustment nut... then i take electrical tape and start with a complete twist around the retaining ring to secure the stockinette,,,dont pull the tape YET... once i have made 1 complete turn i start to pull on the tape and wind out toward the air cap and can acutally get it to lay right up to about within 1/4" of the air cap,...and then i wrap it back onto the retaining ring where i reduce the pull on the tape and cut/tear it off....this takes about 3-4 turns of tape...i stop at about 1/4" from the air cap as closer and if it does "creep" at all it will hang up on the air cap...not real good to have happen...affects its glideing motion..now when i put the gun on the hose i pull the stockintte down over the manual valves (although the tips do seem to poke thru by the end of the day) and i pull the stockintette back over the back of the gun body...i cut a small slot to secure it over the "safety knob" on the back... walla...the gun body is covered,,the handle isnt...but my gloved hand takes most of the drift here... now then..on the end of the hose i take an old tube sock,,,cut off the toe end and feed it ovet the gun block and down the hose as far as it goes without stretching,,,i secure this to the hose with about 4 wraps of (what else guy's and gal's)duct tape) i roll this back off the gun block about 6" or so when coupleing the gun to the block...fold down the stockinette over the gun block manual valves in front and pull the sock back up the hose over the rear of the gun body and the exposed gun safety..walla covered,,cheap,,,fast and furious... damn i hope this makes sense to you all,,i even proofed it a time or two to see if it made sense to me,,,it does (scarey thought aint it??) ps: my hired man had some trouble at first with the electrical tape,,,he liked to pull it and did not leave up on the stretch on the last twist and it would ,,,and will,,,work its way forward off of the gun,,,but after a time or two he got it down,,, hope this helps,... 'dude |
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Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Jul 26, 2006 07:11 PM
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Thanks Dude. I use CRC releaase agent. It come in an aerosol can. We spray the gun down liberally (including the air slide). This keep the overspray from sticking. olger |
