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Jonathan Peyton Posted: Feb 13, 2006 05:53 PM	Having problems with Gusmer tips We are having problems with the Gusmer GAP gun - the PCDs for the TP100 are not spraying well at all. We can get a brand new one and in 15 minutes it starts clogging up. Any suggestions? We are spraying Sealection500.
Posted: Feb 14, 2006 06:00 PM	Have been using a gap for about 5 yrs now, and have found that we have by far the most trouble with the winter systems utilizing air purge guns. We do not spray open cell so Iam not familiar with the reaction time of the open cell. Hopefully however this post will be of some assistance. We spray Heatlok 217 throughout winter months, and find that anything smaller than an .02 tip is like pulling teeth. We have the best luck using a .02 tip and turning the primary and hose heat down as far as we can and still get a nice pattern. With the 217 we look for around 112 degrees. I do know that the open cells require more heat so I cant point you in the right direction for your specific application. Dont think though that you are going to get the success that you do with a summer system. For instance we will clean a new chamber every 15 minutes or so in the winter. In summer we can spray all day and never pick up the drill bit. I have been told to try a mechanical purge for winter spraying. I have a friend appling in Canada and he says he can't touch an air purge in the winter. Good Luck Terry
Posted: Feb 14, 2006 06:14 PM
Posted: Feb 14, 2006 11:04 PM	We were having the same trouble, you can put some grease on the tip before you start. Also have an extra one already put togather so when one gets clogged you can soak it and put on the other one.
Posted: Feb 26, 2006 08:47 PM	i spray with an air purge gun year round. i really have no trouble with it clogging or sticking or gumming up. you need to be looking at something if you are only going 15 minutes,,,geez i'd be bangin my head!!! here are a few places id start with if you are in cold climates: look at your heat at the hose whip with a thermometer (add 10* for the fluid temp)you may be loosing heat due to the hose being in extreme temp conditions (remember the foam suppliers think 55-60* is winter conditions!) look at your supply temps: they should be about equal to the proportioner..keep your drums off the cold floor if you can. DRY AIR: when hot meets cold condensation occurs. compressor running and doing its thing=HOT AIR run about 150 of air line out the rig,,on the ground,,to the AIR PURGE gun (as i remember even my mechanical gun air purged) and when you set it down you are misting the chamber,,,,lets see,,,iso + water = sticky stuff.... put a good air dryer in line,,,coalescing filters just dont do it,, if your guns are giving you trouble,,,see if you can get a rep to get you a trial on another... life is to short to fight equipment..there are alternatives..some work better for others... have a great week mark
Posted: Mar 03, 2006 05:53 PM	Foamdude-what did you mean by keeping supply temps close to proportioner temp. Are you saying that raw chemicals should be maintained at around 110 degrees. Spraying rigid in the winter has always posed more work in the winter. Air purge problems seem to be the norm here.We need to run the drill bit about every 15 minutes.Im not talking a gun tear down every 15, Im just talking a drill bit through the chamber. Moisture in the air in not a problem nor is the temp. Its just the nature of a rigid in the winter. Ow come on warmer weather.
Posted: Mar 12, 2006 02:57 AM	no,,i meant the temps should be equal into the proportioner from the supply lines,,,i like mine at at least 70 degrees in the cold weather...helps with the viscosity imbalance of the two different materials...look at the delta T of your proportioner to get a better idea of just what you need to supply the fluid at to achieve maximum heater performance from your proportioner... yes cold weather bytes.... bring on spring.. saw my first robin yesterday here in the cornfield... ye ha

Author

Comments

Jonathan Peyton

Posted: Feb 13, 2006 05:53 PM

Having problems with Gusmer tips

We are having problems with the Gusmer GAP gun - the PCDs for the TP100 are not spraying well at all. We can get a brand new one and in 15 minutes it starts clogging up. Any suggestions? We are spraying Sealection500.

Posted: Feb 14, 2006 06:00 PM

Have been using a gap for about 5 yrs now, and have found that we have by far the most trouble with the winter systems utilizing air purge guns. We do not spray open cell so Iam not familiar with the reaction time of the open cell. Hopefully however this post will be of some assistance. We spray Heatlok 217 throughout winter months, and find that anything smaller than an .02 tip is like pulling teeth. We have the best luck using a .02 tip and turning the primary and hose heat down as far as we can and still get a nice pattern. With the 217 we look for around 112 degrees. I do know that the open cells require more heat so I cant point you in the right direction for your specific application. Dont think though that you are going to get the success that you do with a summer system. For instance we will clean a new chamber every 15 minutes or so in the winter. In summer we can spray all day and never pick up the drill bit. I have been told to try a mechanical purge for winter spraying. I have a friend appling in Canada and he says he can't touch an air purge in the winter. Good Luck Terry

Posted: Feb 14, 2006 06:14 PM

Posted: Feb 14, 2006 11:04 PM

We were having the same trouble, you can put some grease on the tip before you start. Also have an extra one already put togather so when one gets clogged you can soak it and put on the other one.

Posted: Feb 26, 2006 08:47 PM

i spray with an air purge gun year round.
i really have no trouble with it clogging or sticking or gumming up. you need to be looking at something if you are only going 15 minutes,,,geez i'd be bangin my head!!!
here are a few places id start with
if you are in cold climates:
look at your heat at the hose whip with a thermometer (add 10* for the fluid temp)you may be loosing heat due to the hose being in extreme temp conditions (remember the foam suppliers think 55-60* is winter conditions!)
look at your supply temps: they should be about equal to the proportioner..keep your drums off the cold floor if you can.
DRY AIR: when hot meets cold condensation occurs.
compressor running and doing its thing=HOT AIR
run about 150 of air line out the rig,,on the ground,,to the AIR PURGE gun (as i remember even my mechanical gun air purged) and when you set it down you are misting the chamber,,,,lets see,,,iso + water = sticky stuff....
put a good air dryer in line,,,coalescing filters just dont do it,,
if your guns are giving you trouble,,,see if you can get a rep to get you a trial on another...
life is to short to fight equipment..there are alternatives..some work better for others...
have a great week
mark

Posted: Mar 03, 2006 05:53 PM

Foamdude-what did you mean by keeping supply temps close to proportioner temp. Are you saying that raw chemicals should be maintained at around 110 degrees. Spraying rigid in the winter has always posed more work in the winter. Air purge problems seem to be the norm here.We need to run the drill bit about every 15 minutes.Im not talking a gun tear down every 15, Im just talking a drill bit through the chamber. Moisture in the air in not a problem nor is the temp. Its just the nature of a rigid in the winter. Ow come on warmer weather.

Posted: Mar 12, 2006 02:57 AM

no,,i meant the temps should be equal into the proportioner from the supply lines,,,i like mine at at least 70 degrees in the cold weather...helps with the viscosity imbalance of the two different materials...look at the delta
T of your proportioner to get a better idea of just what you need to supply the fluid at to achieve maximum heater performance from your proportioner...
yes cold weather bytes....
bring on spring..
saw my first robin yesterday here in the cornfield...
ye ha

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