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heated whip assembly Post New Topic | Post Reply
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Posted: Aug 20, 2007 12:36 PM
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heated whip assembly
what's up fellas. As the rest of you, I am constantly fixing and tweaking my rig to get it operating as efficiently as possible. It is a never ending battle, as I am sure you all can attest to. This weekend my heated whip assembly went out and it is going to cost me as follows:$650.00: New Whip assembly $50.00: Over-night delivery $450.00: Labor Now I know I am overpaying, but I have never messed with any of the electrical components of my rig...it is the only thing I haven't tried to fix myself. I have vowed never again to pay that kind of money to fix something that I know I can do once I have seen it done. I considered not replacing it but my supplier told me the 50' section would then take a beating and eventually need to be replaced and then you would be talking even bigger bucks...made sense so I told him to go ahead and replace it. My question is how much does a new whip assembly really cost and how difficult is it to replace? How often do you guys have to replace yours? How difficult is it to do and how do I trouble shoot it to pin point exactly where the problem is? We have five 50' sections of hose and then the whip which is like 15' or so...how do I find out which section the failure is in? I would appreciate any input here fellas since this is about the only area I am ignorant in...pumps, guns, proportioning units, off ratio foam, etc... I am comfortable with troubleshooting and fixing...this I am not. |
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clint moore
Posted: Aug 20, 2007 02:45 PM
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First,if you don't already have one, go out and buy yourself a descent multimeter.Next test your line for continuity,the multimeter should have a setting for this,what it does is lets you know if you have a break in your line,bring the end of the hose to the front of the proportioner where your hose comes off,disconnect the hose heat line,put one of the probes from the multimeter on one end of the heater line the other probe at the other end.If you get a tone this means you have continuity,if you don't start taking apart the sections of hose and test the sections,easiest way to do this is take off whip test from machine to end,no continuity,take 50' section off test again,repeat until you have continuity,once you have continuity the last section you removed take off and test,no continuity,remove it and connect the rest of your hose back.test from end to end,have continuity, do all of this with no power,problem almost fixed. If you drop a section of hose remember to change the setting on your machine if your not going to replace it. Non-heated would be cheaper if you can use it. |
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Michael Flander
Posted: Aug 20, 2007 05:20 PM
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NEVER plug the whip or a jumper directly into the machine, the system is not designed to work this way, and you will greatly increase the risk of burning your transformer and/or heater control board, which will only add to your frustration. $650 for a whip hose sounds high price wise, and you should not have to pay for overnight shipping because you can get by without a whip for a day or two, and if the problem is in the electrical portion of the whip(the fluid section is not leaking) then you can continue to spray with the whip on, just jumper the electrical connection on the last section of hose, you don't even need to change your hose tap. Please give me a call, I would love to help you with this problem, and have walked MANY people through troubleshooting the exact problem you are having! It's what I do... My 2 cents, Mike Flander - Endisys 763-428-5075 ext. 205 mikeflander@endisys.com |
