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Melvin Chandler
Posted: Aug 08, 2006 09:05 AM
It's here
All of my equip is here except for the gen set which should arrive tomorrow. Plan to start rigging this weekend. Any last thoughts on what you wish you would have done or would like to do? What is a must do? etc.

Floors & Walls: I like the polyurea suggestions but some have said it may be a problem cleaning up when something spills. A few have said that flat stainless Any need to treat the floor walls in the front compartment with the genset and air?is the best for spills but is a bit slippery.

What is best way to vent/exhaust the genset? I have vents on the side of the trailer but I'll need some venting for fumes/exhaust.

Have a 28' gooseneck. Front compartment will be about 6' deep and is 8' wide. That leaves me 14' in the back of the rig. I would like to put a work bench on the partition wall but that leaves no room for the proportioner up front. Should I just plan on putting it next to the rear doors on one side and the hose on the other? Store drums over axles?

Should air drier go up front with air and genset or put in back away from all of the heat?

I'll appreciate all suggestions.
Melvin Chandler
Posted: Aug 08, 2006 08:17 PM
I'm really concerned with my air dryer. My air guy says it's better to keep it out of the heat and being down line a bit wouldn't hurt. Some of the Graco/Gusmer photos show the dryer up under the bench. I've got a boat load of room up in my gooseneck. I'd love to put it there.

I'm also not going to have room in the floor for the compressor motor. I'll be putting it on top and will probably put an extra vent or two up there.

Thoughts on covering floor and walls???
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Aug 08, 2006 08:23 PM
"Should I just plan on putting it next to the rear doors on one side and the hose on the other? Store drums over axles?" Yes.

You may place the air dryer in the mechanical room if you have an aftercooler on the compressor. This will remove part of the water before it gets to the dryer. The 5-in-1 dryers are the best, incidentally. I would use epoxy on the mechanical room floor. Wears like iron, and offers a cleanable relatively non slip surface. Sherwin Williams 650 or equal.

Have fun.

gcw
Melvin Chandler
Posted: Aug 08, 2006 09:29 PM
Thanks for the encouragement. I think I will have fun. Maybe I'm better off with the turnkey but there's something about being able to view your own canvas when you finish a piece.

What about interior lighting? I'd like to do some lights that can light up the interior without heating it up. Also needs to be able to handle the rough ride.

Where can I find an exhaust pipe for the genset to go thru the roof?

With the gen set in the next compartment, I probably don't need to worry about heading the back end but I'm sure I'll have to get something. Should I just consider a space heater or something more substantial?

Is the Sherwin Williams epoxy brushable(roller and pad)?
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Aug 20, 2006 11:10 AM
It is brushable and rollable. Good stuff.



olger
Melvin Chandler
Posted: Aug 23, 2006 10:49 PM
Thanks O!!! it worked great. Only problem is when we roll the drums to get the pumps in they really mess up the floor. I'll probably be putting in some metal where I'm placing the drums.
Gerry Wagoner
Posted: Aug 27, 2006 11:47 AM
It probably needs more cure time. You are correct, steel drums will make any floor wear except concrete.

Polyurea and epoxy will hold up the next best. Aluminum tread plate is decent.


gcw
Posted: Aug 27, 2006 04:50 PM
diamond plate on my deck...
dryed iso and it pretty much wire brushes (cup brush on ginder) off..
handles the power washer too..
holds up to drums, drum dollies and all the other stuff i slide in and out...

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