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Melvin Chandler Posted: Oct 03, 2006 08:19 PM	Olger or others spraying Poly hybrids I have a sizeable 540-A project to start on next week and I'm getting some conflicting information from the distributor and the manufacturer. I'd like to see what the people in the field are doing and what has been succesful rather than deciding what the people behind the desks are saying. 1. Data sheets say to mix the A and B sides. A side must be mixex with bowtie mixer that is air driven. It says B can be power mixed which I assume is drill or ele mixer. What is typical? 2. When spraying a smooth surfaced APP modified Bitumen, manufacturer says to spray 2 gal+/- per square on all laps/seams and then cover the entire roof with 2gal+/- per square. Distributor says to use butyl tape and doesn't require any type of prep to get the butyl to stick. What is typical? 3. Same as 2 but talking Rubber? Prime before butyl tape or not? Their reasoning for the butyl is to keep water from entering the laps when powerwashing but if the tape isn't stuck very well, water is just going to work it's way under the tape or blow it right off. Although, I don't find either that necessary, I'm more inclined to agree with spraying a base on the laps rather than applying tape since the tape isn't really compatible. Thoughts???
Gerry Wagoner Posted: Oct 05, 2006 06:14 AM	I use a Graco Twistorx mixer for each one. Does a great job. Tried a drill mixer and soon abandonded that effort. Either way will work on seams. On rubber we double coat the seams - we like about 70-80 mils on the seams. we prime with Techno 199 primer. have fun
Aaron Scurlock Posted: Oct 05, 2006 08:41 AM	Do as the MFG says. Prime with #11 and precoat the seams. On APP, I like to repair the seams with a quick torch over if possible or patch it with APP for water. Do not use cement, as it has to be fully cured (dried) before spraying to it. Also, NP1 works great for waterproofing, and is compatible with the 540A. Refer to the product manuals for installation specifications. Ask the poster known as VolatileFree for one. You already know the guy, I bet. :)
Melvin Chandler Posted: Oct 05, 2006 05:18 PM	Oger, what is the Techno 199? Is it the same as one of the VFI products and/or made by them? AaronB, I've got a few of the binders from VFI but they are old need some updated info. I'm going to spray the seams first. I just don't see installing a non-like pressure sensative product on the app and then power washing. Our washer will blow it off the roof. Are you speaking about volaTilefree with a T?
Melvin Chandler Posted: Oct 05, 2006 05:27 PM	Oh yea Aaron, what are you mixing with? Are you mixing both A and B?
Aaron Scurlock Posted: Oct 07, 2006 08:28 PM	Yeah, Im mixing both sides. I am using two something or other air mixers with the triple lift paddle. I dont know whatg theyre called yet, but will look if you want. 20 minutes per drum in the am, with band type drum heaters as I mix them, and the heaters are switched as we go, and the mixers continue to run on low while the drum heaters are switched back to re-heat the materials before it is pumped to the Reactor as we spray. I have been spraying at 150F with nighttime temps at around 40 sometimes in the 30's and my pressure is perfect and the mix is tight. I love this stuff. Have sold some repair jobs, and re-roofs and a metal, all successful so far :)
Melvin Chandler Posted: Oct 08, 2006 12:34 AM	Please. I'd love some info on what is successful. Had some prices from Indco on a mixer for my A side but will be using a mixing drill and impeller for the first few jobs. Trailer dude will just be lounging around anyway so I'll have him mixing. I already have a B side mixer which is a variable ele. Have been told that is all that is needed in the Resin. What chamber and tip are you using?
Aaron Scurlock Posted: Oct 08, 2006 08:29 PM	I got some pics today for you, newby. Will try to get them posted. Using the chamber it came with, not sure what it is numbered and all that sheet. LOL I guess I will look and see, but was not planning on a new chamber for four or five more sets. Theyre kinda costly, I hear.
Gerry Wagoner Posted: Oct 09, 2006 10:00 PM	#1 or 2 will work. Probler.
Aaron Scurlock Posted: Oct 15, 2006 09:11 PM	Newby, Pics of one of the mixers. I think it would be fiscally sound to just buy the mixer for 3 bills and start reaping the savings. When I start up in the a.m., the mixers are the first thing to get going. These are like the Ronco Rotisseries. Just set it and forget it. Then go on to getting the primers and all ready, and the masks sterilized and checked, fix something, maintain something, get everything for the rooftop, etc. Always seems to be something to do intead of hodling a mixer for threee or four hours. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/aaronscurlock32/POLYUREA/?sc=1&addtype=local

Author

Comments

Melvin Chandler

Posted: Oct 03, 2006 08:19 PM

Olger or others spraying Poly hybrids

I have a sizeable 540-A project to start on next week and I'm getting some conflicting information from the distributor and the manufacturer. I'd like to see what the people in the field are doing and what has been succesful rather than deciding what the people behind the desks are saying.

1. Data sheets say to mix the A and B sides. A side must be mixex with bowtie mixer that is air driven. It says B can be power mixed which I assume is drill or ele mixer. What is typical?

2. When spraying a smooth surfaced APP modified Bitumen, manufacturer says to spray 2 gal+/- per square on all laps/seams and then cover the entire roof with 2gal+/- per square. Distributor says to use butyl tape and doesn't require any type of prep to get the butyl to stick. What is typical?

3. Same as 2 but talking Rubber? Prime before butyl tape or not?

Their reasoning for the butyl is to keep water from entering the laps when powerwashing but if the tape isn't stuck very well, water is just going to work it's way under the tape or blow it right off. Although, I don't find either that necessary, I'm more inclined to agree with spraying a base on the laps rather than applying tape since the tape isn't really compatible. Thoughts???

Gerry Wagoner

Posted: Oct 05, 2006 06:14 AM

I use a Graco Twistorx mixer for each one. Does a great job. Tried a drill mixer and soon abandonded that effort.

Either way will work on seams.

On rubber we double coat the seams - we like about 70-80 mils on the seams.

we prime with Techno 199 primer.

have fun

Aaron Scurlock

Posted: Oct 05, 2006 08:41 AM

Do as the MFG says.

Prime with #11 and precoat the seams. On APP, I like to repair the seams with a quick torch over if possible or patch it with APP for water.

Do not use cement, as it has to be fully cured (dried) before spraying to it. Also, NP1 works great for waterproofing, and is compatible with the 540A.

Refer to the product manuals for installation specifications. Ask the poster known as VolatileFree for one. You already know the guy, I bet. :)

Melvin Chandler

Posted: Oct 05, 2006 05:18 PM

Oger, what is the Techno 199? Is it the same as one of the VFI products and/or made by them?

AaronB, I've got a few of the binders from VFI but they are old need some updated info. I'm going to spray the seams first. I just don't see installing a non-like pressure sensative product on the app and then power washing. Our washer will blow it off the roof.

Are you speaking about volaTilefree with a T?

Melvin Chandler

Posted: Oct 05, 2006 05:27 PM

Oh yea Aaron, what are you mixing with? Are you mixing both A and B?

Aaron Scurlock

Posted: Oct 07, 2006 08:28 PM

Yeah, Im mixing both sides.

I am using two something or other air mixers with the triple lift paddle. I dont know whatg theyre called yet, but will look if you want. 20 minutes per drum in the am, with band type drum heaters as I mix them, and the heaters are switched as we go, and the mixers continue to run on low while the drum heaters are switched back to re-heat the materials before it is pumped to the Reactor as we spray. I have been spraying at 150F with nighttime temps at around 40 sometimes in the 30's and my pressure is perfect and the mix is tight.

I love this stuff. Have sold some repair jobs, and re-roofs and a metal, all successful so far :)

Melvin Chandler

Posted: Oct 08, 2006 12:34 AM

Please. I'd love some info on what is successful. Had some prices from Indco on a mixer for my A side but will be using a mixing drill and impeller for the first few jobs. Trailer dude will just be lounging around anyway so I'll have him mixing.

I already have a B side mixer which is a variable ele. Have been told that is all that is needed in the Resin.

What chamber and tip are you using?

Aaron Scurlock

Posted: Oct 08, 2006 08:29 PM

I got some pics today for you, newby. Will try to get them posted.

Using the chamber it came with, not sure what it is numbered and all that sheet. LOL I guess I will look and see, but was not planning on a new chamber for four or five more sets. Theyre kinda costly, I hear.

Gerry Wagoner

Posted: Oct 09, 2006 10:00 PM

#1 or 2 will work. Probler.

Aaron Scurlock

Posted: Oct 15, 2006 09:11 PM

Newby,

Pics of one of the mixers. I think it would be fiscally sound to just buy the mixer for 3 bills and start reaping the savings. When I start up in the a.m., the mixers are the first thing to get going. These are like the Ronco Rotisseries. Just set it and forget it.

Then go on to getting the primers and all ready, and the masks sterilized and checked, fix something, maintain something, get everything for the rooftop, etc. Always seems to be something to do intead of hodling a mixer for threee or four hours.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v446/aaronscurlock32/POLYUREA/?sc=1&addtype=local

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