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john rogers Posted: Jan 08, 2012 05:21 PM	open cell pulling away from studs Bayer open cell foam.45 days old material. Mixed with triple paddle IPM mixer for 30 minutes. We have run the temps from 115 to 135. pressure at 1300 trigger pulled. pressure 50 lbs. difference between Iso and resin. Gap Pro/new 02 Gama chambers. Filling the 2x6 cavity with one pass. Trimming with CI Cutter. 2x6 wall cavities. 2x14 vaulted roof deck. House warmed to 45-50. Warmed up by temporary furnace properly ventilated to the outside. brand spanking new house. Furnace hooked up & turned on, 10-12 hours before job. Pulling away from studs: 1/8" or so. going back 1-2" from the face of the stud. Happens around the 4-6 foot area above the floor.Not happening in the roof deck. 15-20% of the studs We can go back and touch up these areas, but would like to get it right the 1st time. Added a second heater on the second floor, and had 75-80 degrees in 15 minutes. Still had pull back but less severe than the 1st floor. would green wood that had no heat prior to furance be a part of this situation? Fantastic yield and great looking foam. But the pull back is a headache. Suggestions please.
Circle-D Posted: Jan 08, 2012 07:06 PM	You didn't state what the moisture content of the wood was. Did you check it with a moisture meter? I have found if you warm the substrate to much on a really cold day you will CAUSE condensation. It may be warm enough to spray but still be to wet. We try to warm just enough to meet mfg. specs and not casue additional moisture. On bitter cold days we do something else, like rig maintanence in the nice warm shop.
jimcoler I have over 10 years of experience specifying and installing open and closed cell spray foam. I've sold my business but I'm still selling for the new owners and consulting on large and custom specific jobs. I've expanded my knowledge into t Posted: Jan 08, 2012 10:22 PM	You say it happens in some areas but it's not consistent across all of the areas? This indicates to me that it's a spray technique that can be causing this issue. We've seen this in some cases where there are smaller bays, above and below windows, and in corners. These are a pain - I agree! I would suggest looking at how it was sprayed differently than the rest of the sprayed product? If everything else is the same, then it should be happening everywhere consistently.
mason Posted: Jan 09, 2012 08:09 AM	What does the foam look like? Are their any voids, cracks or fissures, color variations etc. How is the substrate/foam interface? Does it look like there is a reaction at the substrate? As suggested by others, check your moisture content of the wood. 45 to 50 degrees is still fairly cool so heating the substrate a little more should help. Have you contacted Bayer to talk to their technical staff. They should be able to help isolate the issue and provide recommendations. Other things to check out, Do you have moisture in your drums or air compressor?
steven argus Posted: Jan 09, 2012 11:32 AM	Make sure you get foam on the FACE of each stud. You have to trim anyways. This usally solves the "pulling away" problem for us. Touch up work blows.

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john rogers

Posted: Jan 08, 2012 05:21 PM

open cell pulling away from studs

Bayer open cell foam.45 days old material. Mixed with triple paddle IPM mixer for 30 minutes. We have run the temps from 115 to 135.
pressure at 1300 trigger pulled. pressure 50 lbs. difference between Iso and resin. Gap Pro/new 02 Gama chambers. Filling the 2x6 cavity with one pass. Trimming with CI Cutter.
2x6 wall cavities. 2x14 vaulted roof deck. House warmed to 45-50. Warmed up by temporary furnace properly ventilated to the outside.
brand spanking new house. Furnace hooked up & turned on, 10-12 hours before job.

Pulling away from studs: 1/8" or so. going back 1-2" from the face of the stud. Happens around the 4-6 foot area above the floor.Not happening in the roof deck. 15-20% of the studs We can go back and touch up these areas, but would like to get it right the 1st time.
Added a second heater on the second floor, and had 75-80 degrees in 15 minutes. Still had pull back but less severe than the 1st floor.

would green wood that had no heat prior to furance be a part of this situation?

Fantastic yield and great looking foam. But the pull back is a headache.

Suggestions please.

Circle-D

Posted: Jan 08, 2012 07:06 PM

You didn't state what the moisture content of the wood was. Did you check it with a moisture meter? I have found if you warm the substrate to much on a really cold day you will CAUSE condensation. It may be warm enough to spray but still be to wet. We try to warm just enough to meet mfg. specs and not casue additional moisture. On bitter cold days we do something else, like rig maintanence in the nice warm shop.

jimcoler

I have over 10 years of experience specifying and installing open and closed cell spray foam. I've sold my business but I'm still selling for the new owners and consulting on large and custom specific jobs.

I've expanded my knowledge into t

Posted: Jan 08, 2012 10:22 PM

You say it happens in some areas but it's not consistent across all of the areas? This indicates to me that it's a spray technique that can be causing this issue. We've seen this in some cases where there are smaller bays, above and below windows, and in corners. These are a pain - I agree! I would suggest looking at how it was sprayed differently than the rest of the sprayed product? If everything else is the same, then it should be happening everywhere consistently.

mason

Posted: Jan 09, 2012 08:09 AM

What does the foam look like? Are their any voids, cracks or fissures, color variations etc. How is the substrate/foam interface?

Does it look like there is a reaction at the substrate?

As suggested by others, check your moisture content of the wood.

45 to 50 degrees is still fairly cool so heating the substrate a little more should help.

Have you contacted Bayer to talk to their technical staff. They should be able to help isolate the issue and provide recommendations.

Other things to check out, Do you have moisture in your drums or air compressor?

steven argus

Posted: Jan 09, 2012 11:32 AM

Make sure you get foam on the FACE of each stud. You have to trim anyways. This usally solves the "pulling away" problem for us. Touch up work blows.

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