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Author	Comments
Tyler Boehs Posted: Feb 01, 2011 05:38 PM	Spraying Existing Attics I am just wondering how you guys are all spraying existing attics, ya know the ones with th 4/12 pitch, anyways what is the best way to get a good seal right at the eave, much less get in there to spray it?
Terry Adams Posted: Feb 01, 2011 09:48 PM	Some I won't even try. I recommend OC only on the tight ones. Just put in the long range tip and walk the foam up to a decent head room space the finish with regular tip.
steven argus Posted: Feb 01, 2011 10:27 PM	Bid it like ya don't want it. Maybe quadruple the price. Then if ya get it, it's really not that bad. LOL 4/12 pitch, existing attics, is the only time I reccomend blowin in more paper.
philip mullins Posted: Feb 03, 2011 03:16 PM	guiness is right. work sucks so u gotta bid it high or u dont want it. duct work is always in the way.and terry is right too. the expansion characteristics of oc makes it a lot easier to seal the roof deck to the top plate. and it HAS to be sealed to work right. and terry may kick my ass for telling this but for the sake of good work, hear you go. first, take a ac duct loose from the ceiling register and let it cool the attic and give you a place get some cool air. second, for closed cell in tight attics, get some cardboard, lots of it. cut it to the approximate size of the hole u need to fill above the top plate. get u a frog gig (3 prong) and weld a barb on it so that u can stab thrue the cardboard but it will not slide up the gig. use the frog gig to place the cardboard into the hole. spray the edges of the cardboard, sealing it to the rafters, decking, and top plate.give it a few seconds to cure and pull out the gig leaving the cardboard in place to spray to.
jimcoler I have over 10 years of experience specifying and installing open and closed cell spray foam. I've sold my business but I'm still selling for the new owners and consulting on large and custom specific jobs. I've expanded my knowledge into t Posted: Feb 06, 2011 08:32 AM	I spray them all the time. Even hear stories of how our competitor gets stuck once in a while doing these tight attics and crawls. I get a kick out of that! Especially when the customer calls the because of Ice Damming and they still have it after foaming - not good foaming! It's a pain to try to go back in and pull out some of the poorly foamed crap and spray some good stuff in. Jim
John Shockney Posted: Feb 06, 2011 03:25 PM	When I spray existing attics I like to use the pour adapter for the P-2 gun and a 03 tip this lets me put down a lot of foam quickly while giving me added range to spray back to the eves that have been blocked with fiberglass or foam board. This works great with open or closed cell as long as you aren't set too hot then the closed cell tends to pluge the tip. Airpro
Jason Gaborie Posted: Nov 28, 2011 11:04 PM	Are you guys removing all the old fiber insulation before foaming?
Daniel X Posted: Dec 19, 2011 12:24 AM	Jason, I sure as hell hope they are.

Author

Comments

Tyler Boehs

Posted: Feb 01, 2011 05:38 PM

Spraying Existing Attics

I am just wondering how you guys are all spraying existing attics, ya know the ones with th 4/12 pitch, anyways what is the best way to get a good seal right at the eave, much less get in there to spray it?

Terry Adams

Posted: Feb 01, 2011 09:48 PM

Some I won't even try. I recommend OC only on the tight ones. Just put in the long range tip and walk the foam up to a decent head room space the finish with regular tip.

steven argus

Posted: Feb 01, 2011 10:27 PM

Bid it like ya don't want it. Maybe quadruple the price. Then if ya get it, it's really not that bad. LOL

4/12 pitch, existing attics, is the only time I reccomend blowin in more paper.

philip mullins

Posted: Feb 03, 2011 03:16 PM

guiness is right. work sucks so u gotta bid it high or u dont want it. duct work is always in the way.and terry is right too. the expansion characteristics of oc makes it a lot easier to seal the roof deck to the top plate. and it HAS to be sealed to work right.

and terry may kick my ass for telling this but for the sake of good work, hear you go. first, take a ac duct loose from the ceiling register and let it cool the attic and give you a place get some cool air. second, for closed cell in tight attics, get some cardboard, lots of it. cut it to the approximate size of the hole u need to fill above the top plate. get u a frog gig (3 prong) and weld a barb on it so that u can stab thrue the cardboard but it will not slide up the gig. use the frog gig to place the cardboard into the hole. spray the edges of the cardboard, sealing it to the rafters, decking, and top plate.give it a few seconds to cure and pull out the gig leaving the cardboard in place to spray to.

jimcoler

I have over 10 years of experience specifying and installing open and closed cell spray foam. I've sold my business but I'm still selling for the new owners and consulting on large and custom specific jobs.

I've expanded my knowledge into t

Posted: Feb 06, 2011 08:32 AM

I spray them all the time. Even hear stories of how our competitor gets stuck once in a while doing these tight attics and crawls. I get a kick out of that! Especially when the customer calls the because of Ice Damming and they still have it after foaming - not good foaming! It's a pain to try to go back in and pull out some of the poorly foamed crap and spray some good stuff in.
Jim

John Shockney

Posted: Feb 06, 2011 03:25 PM

When I spray existing attics I like to use the pour adapter for the P-2 gun and a 03 tip this lets me put down a lot of foam quickly while giving me added range to spray back to the eves that have been blocked with fiberglass or foam board.

This works great with open or closed cell as long as you aren't set too hot then the closed cell tends to pluge the tip.

Airpro

Jason Gaborie

Posted: Nov 28, 2011 11:04 PM

Are you guys removing all the old fiber insulation before foaming?

Daniel X

Posted: Dec 19, 2011 12:24 AM

Jason, I sure as hell hope they are.

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