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Author	Comments
Posted: Mar 18, 2010 10:51 PM	Want to flush entire system out I want to flush my entire system out on my old Graco so I can begin to rebuild both my a & B side, beef up my heaters, etc..., but don't feel like dealing with leaking ISO and Reisin What is the best material to use to flush everything out from my stick pumps through my reactor and then the lines. I have heard people using everything from Diesel to Kerosene! What is the best material to use to flush out my entire system?
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 06:07 AM	diesel is cheap...
mason Posted: Mar 19, 2010 11:22 AM	Start with the diesel then follow it with a plasticizer on the A side such as TCP or DOP. That will keep the A side that is left in the hoses and pumps from setting up (no, you can't get all of the A side out no matter how much you try.) I wouldn't flush out the B side, you are more likely to contaminate the hoses by flushing them then by leaving them alone. Remember you have to dispose of the waste in accordance with local, state and federal regs.
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 02:07 PM	I am a golden child for following local, state and federal regs... Thanks Mason and dude
SprayFoamSupply.com Posted: Mar 20, 2010 09:36 AM	Steve, I would not bother to flush if you are just going to rebuild pumps, etc. I would connect a 1/4" quick connect on the cleanout port on your inlet filter, remove the spray hose from the front of the fluid manifold, put a budket there, and blow the machine out with clean, DRY, air. This will get 95% of your fluid out and keep the mess to a minimum. You can reuse all of the material that you blow out and not have to worry about disposing of any solvents in accordance with state, federal, or local anything. Of course you should be wearing the appropriate coveralls and other PPE! So long as you handle the ISO side in a day or two, you shouldn't have any crystallization problems. Call me if you want, you have my #. George
Posted: Mar 20, 2010 10:12 AM	Hey George Thanks! I am going to take my time on this E-20. I am converting it over to an EXP-1. I am going to beef up the heaters, change the hoses to high pressure and re-do my A and B side pumps. If it can be done, I plan on beefing up the entire unit. Steve
dave defehr Posted: Oct 11, 2012 01:34 AM	Hey guys, I know I'm on a spray foam forum. I spray bedliners with a Graco E 10. Is there any way to beef up the heaters on an E10? If so, would this be safe, and how could I do this? My heaters go to 145 - 150 degrees. Would lowering the viscosity of the material help me achieve a finer textured liner?
Linerman Posted: Oct 11, 2012 06:06 PM	Can I just take a shot in the dark and say you're an IndyLiner dealer? Which is sold by Pinnacle West, don't they offer tech support? 145-150 degrees is where pretty much everybody sprays their material at in the bedliner industry. The e10 has a max temp of 160 degrees. Also pressure can dictate droplet size. But You probably have that e10 maxed out. 150 degrees at 2200psi is pretty standard for most polyurea's for proper atomization. Raising temps will do very little. However one of the main effects is spraying technique. Far as "beefing up" heaters I believe that thing is all you're gonna get, why not just upgrade to an exp1? or exp2? Which you would be better off with. Most don't recommend the e10.
SprayFoamSupply.com Posted: Oct 11, 2012 08:46 PM	You can not add heat to the E10. The max temp is all you are going to get. If you have the E10 with 2 110 volt plugs, it has 1700 watts of heat, if you have the 1 220v plug, it has 2,000 watts of heat. If you are not getting a good patern, maybe your chamber is too big? What size chamber are you using? George
dave defehr Posted: Oct 11, 2012 10:43 PM	Thanks guys. I am an Indy Liner dealer, and yes I do have tech support, just wanted to hear what you guys had to say. I hope you dont mind me on here, you guys have alot of great info. My E10 does have the 2000w heaters and hose heat. It also sprays at 2000psi. I use an AR2222 mix chamber. I get a great spray pattern and it does texture nice, just thought I could do something to get the texture a little finer. I'm just being picky. I sprayed low pressure before and wanted to spray high pressure so I got this machine used for a pretty good price.
Linerman Posted: Oct 12, 2012 05:21 PM	That's what this place is for. You might want to check out the sister site, www.polyurea.com for more info.

Author

Comments

Posted: Mar 18, 2010 10:51 PM

Want to flush entire system out

I want to flush my entire system out on my old Graco so I can begin to rebuild both my a & B side, beef up my heaters, etc..., but don't feel like dealing with leaking ISO and Reisin

What is the best material to use to flush everything out from my stick pumps through my reactor and then the lines.

I have heard people using everything from Diesel to Kerosene! What is the best material to use to flush out my entire system?

Posted: Mar 19, 2010 06:07 AM

diesel is cheap...

mason

Posted: Mar 19, 2010 11:22 AM

Start with the diesel then follow it with a plasticizer on the A side such as TCP or DOP. That will keep the A side that is left in the hoses and pumps from setting up (no, you can't get all of the A side out no matter how much you try.) I wouldn't flush out the B side, you are more likely to contaminate the hoses by flushing them then by leaving them alone.

Remember you have to dispose of the waste in accordance with local, state and federal regs.

Posted: Mar 19, 2010 02:07 PM

I am a golden child for following local, state and federal regs...

Thanks Mason and dude

SprayFoamSupply.com

Posted: Mar 20, 2010 09:36 AM

Steve,

I would not bother to flush if you are just going to rebuild pumps, etc. I would connect a 1/4" quick connect on the cleanout port on your inlet filter, remove the spray hose from the front of the fluid manifold, put a budket there, and blow the machine out with clean, DRY, air. This will get 95% of your fluid out and keep the mess to a minimum. You can reuse all of the material that you blow out and not have to worry about disposing of any solvents in accordance with state, federal, or local anything. Of course you should be wearing the appropriate coveralls and other PPE! So long as you handle the ISO side in a day or two, you shouldn't have any crystallization problems. Call me if you want, you have my #.

George

Posted: Mar 20, 2010 10:12 AM

Hey George

Thanks! I am going to take my time on this E-20. I am converting it over to an EXP-1. I am going to beef up the heaters, change the hoses to high pressure and re-do my A and B side pumps.

If it can be done, I plan on beefing up the entire unit.

Steve

dave defehr

Posted: Oct 11, 2012 01:34 AM

Hey guys, I know I'm on a spray foam forum. I spray bedliners with a Graco E 10. Is there any way to beef up the heaters on an E10? If so, would this be safe, and how could I do this? My heaters go to 145 - 150 degrees. Would lowering the viscosity of the material help me achieve a finer textured liner?

Linerman

Posted: Oct 11, 2012 06:06 PM

Can I just take a shot in the dark and say you're an IndyLiner dealer? Which is sold by Pinnacle West, don't they offer tech support?

145-150 degrees is where pretty much everybody sprays their material at in the bedliner industry. The e10 has a max temp of 160 degrees. Also pressure can dictate droplet size. But You probably have that e10 maxed out.

150 degrees at 2200psi is pretty standard for most polyurea's for proper atomization. Raising temps will do very little.

However one of the main effects is spraying technique.

Far as "beefing up" heaters I believe that thing is all you're gonna get, why not just upgrade to an exp1? or exp2? Which you would be better off with. Most don't recommend the e10.

SprayFoamSupply.com

Posted: Oct 11, 2012 08:46 PM

You can not add heat to the E10. The max temp is all you are going to get. If you have the E10 with 2 110 volt plugs, it has 1700 watts of heat, if you have the 1 220v plug, it has 2,000 watts of heat. If you are not getting a good patern, maybe your chamber is too big? What size chamber are you using?

George

dave defehr

Posted: Oct 11, 2012 10:43 PM

Thanks guys. I am an Indy Liner dealer, and yes I do have tech support, just wanted to hear what you guys had to say. I hope you dont mind me on here, you guys have alot of great info. My E10 does have the 2000w heaters and hose heat. It also sprays at 2000psi. I use an AR2222 mix chamber. I get a great spray pattern and it does texture nice, just thought I could do something to get the texture a little finer. I'm just being picky. I sprayed low pressure before and wanted to spray high pressure so I got this machine used for a pretty good price.

Linerman

Posted: Oct 12, 2012 05:21 PM

That's what this place is for. You might want to check out the sister site,

www.polyurea.com

for more info.

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