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what a mess, a newbie covered in foam. Post New Topic | Post Reply

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Brian Mulder Posted: Nov 27, 2006 08:28 PM	what a mess, a newbie covered in foam. I have just finished my first spray foam job on a house I have built for a customer. I am a contractor who is now a closed cell foam applicator. I have been looking to get a foam machine for a while and now am spraying my houses and others. One thing I have found out is that if you do not want to get foam on anything you need to store it in the next county. The question I have is...when spraying overhead does everyone get a very messy over spray that covers everything? I did cover all areas with plastic and myself with tyvek hooded coveralls with a respirator (cartridge type) and cheap goggles, gloves etc. What do you do to keep the foam off of your wrists? Or is that just a hazard of the job to lose the hair on your wrists when trying to remove the foam? How about the face? The area where the mask and the goggles don't cover gets sprayed as well and my skin gets a nice thin coating there too. Are most of you using the full face respirators and are they cartridge type or supplied air or are you using the same system I am using. Does anyone have a good internet source for respirators and tyvek suits as well as cheap goggles I can buy in bulk until I decide on what kind or respirator system to use. Has anyone used the electric saws to cut back the over spray between joists or do you just use a hand saw like I am using now. Where can I shop for one of these as well. I live in the Catskill Mountains of NYS and keep heat on in the trailer at all times during the cold nights. I am not sure if it is my technique or the temp that is keeping me from getting a smooth finish but will keep trying. Any info anyone has would be greatly appreciated and I will post more when time allows. I purchased my rig from NAP in Michigan and am using their foam sets right now. They are great to deal with and seem to know what they are talking about. The only drawback is that to get three sets shipped from Gaco cost me $700.00 in shipping and I may have to source a closer supplier to shave costs. Any info on suppliers close to Albany, Binghamton, or Kingston NY? One last question for anyone not in my area that I am directly competing with...if it is not too out of line. What are the going rates for R-19 walls, R-38 ceilings and R-21 floors? I think I have a good handle on it and like I said the guys at NAP have been a great help in getting me started. I look forward to gleaning much more info from this site. Until then thanks for the help. B
Circle-D Posted: Nov 29, 2006 08:50 PM	For a less expensive shipping alternative for your foam try George at NHSPRAYFOAM.COM. I've been to visit his jobsite and work with him and will be buying a rig from him in the spring. Seems like a real honest and down to earth businessman. I took advantage of his free class to learn the business and will be getting set-up this winter to give it a shot in the spring. I've been reading this forum for a few months now and am very thankful so many experienced hands are willing to share info. I'm sure you will be hearing a lot of "rookie" questions from me. I've tried out George's MH2 and was leaning toward the Guardian. Any recommendations as to which one a rookie should start with?
Brian Mulder Posted: Nov 29, 2006 09:43 PM	I have to say circle-d that I am glad there are many experienced foam people here to lend help and support as well. Where are you located? I have an Graco E20 machine and a air purge fusion gun. I spray closed cell. They work great and I hope they continue to do so. I have a small set up. It is all packed nicely into a 6'x10' single axel trailer. I can only haul one set of foam actually two sets if I am travelling a very, very short distance. This I find to be a drawback but I got a good price from NAP (www.napinfo.com)for the equipment. I get power from the breaker panel on the job site. I am still in the newbie stage of foaming and just finished my first job today not counting my own house which was my first full set of materials sprayed. If there is no local source for chemicals then maybe I will become a distributer for the foam. It is to early to tell right now though. Good luck in your endevour. B
Posted: Nov 30, 2006 07:14 AM	Overhead spraying is by far the worst for mess.You will be covered evertime you do it.Buy you suits extra big pull the sleeves over your hand and cut a slit for your thumb to go through.Put your gloves on and that will keep it off your wrists. We use full face 3m face masks and go to sherman williams and get some disposable paint goggles.The roll type so once you get some overspray on them you just roll the film to see again.It will keep you from buying near as many cover shields for your mask.Email anytime to talk elb@mtnhome.com
Posted: Nov 30, 2006 07:23 AM	3M full face masks.Sorry
Lane Hogstad Posted: Nov 30, 2006 08:35 PM	Go to your race car supply store and get the tearaways they use. Drill two holes in the rim of your 3M mask install two cam pins. Stack about 100 tearaways up clamp between two boards and drill the hole to fit your mask. The tabs stick out and can be tore off and not let off the trigger. Mine cost about 10.00 per box of 100. Beats 1.00 a peice. Leave a 3M sheild on the bottom to protect the mask. LLH
Brian Mulder Posted: Nov 30, 2006 09:33 PM	thanks KFI and ultawideone. A race car supply store huh? I have to drive an hour+ to go see a movie or food shopping. I'll look online. Not sure what you mean with attaching it to the 3M face mask. I will look into that. Do either of you use the supplied air or is it just the face mask/cartridge type filters? It is funny that you mention the thumb holes in the sleeve of the Tyvek suits. I had a fire call the other morning and my turnout gear has those wrist cuffs with the thumb hole to protect your wrists from being burned. When I put on the tyvek suit later that morning the first thing I did was cut a hole for my thumb and my wrists stayed clean. I guess I won't be needing to shave my wrists after all. Thanks again B
Lane Hogstad Posted: Nov 30, 2006 10:02 PM	They have holes in each end but are too wide so I just made a jig and cut them where they need to be. We used to spray half blind at times because it was a pain to change lense covers but now just pull the tabs. If any body needs tearaways to get started I can get you in touch with my guy he will set you up unlike most things in this business this ones cheap. Call if you want 605-880-1990. LLH
Circle-D Posted: Nov 30, 2006 10:34 PM	Gotfoam, I'm in central Maine.
John Shockney Posted: Dec 01, 2006 10:47 AM	I've got one for you that I should have posted weeks ago. Use Rain-X wipes on your full face resperators. Then just wipe the foam off with another Rain-X wipe and you reapply all in one step. Carry the wipes in a cheap cloth nail apron. Try ucsc for your foam they have a wearhouse in Toledo, OH and great freight discounts. Also consider picking the foam up at the freight terminal they will load it into your trailer with a forklift, a lot less work than horsing 500# barrels!!
Brian Mulder Posted: Dec 03, 2006 08:41 PM	I will have to try the rain-x on a pair of goggles.I can't see anything keeping the foam from sticking. Circle-D...Central ME huh. Where do you get your foam from? What is the coldest temp you will spray in? ultrawideone, Thanks for the contact info I will call when I get the chance. Thanks to all for the input.
Circle-D Posted: Dec 03, 2006 09:24 PM	Gotfoam, I've just started researching this biz in September. I figured it was the wrong time of year to jump in and invest all that money to sit for the winter as the building was slowing down in this area for the season. Therefore I can't answer your questions. I plan on buying a rig in March/April from George at NHsprayfoam. I will also buy my foam from him as long as he is competitive with other vendors, which my research shows me he is. Experienced people please correct me if I'm wrong but I understand you shouldn't spray on substrates less than 60 degrees or so.
SprayFoamSupply.com Posted: Dec 03, 2006 09:57 PM	Hey Skip, Weren't you taking notes during class? I guess that it was warm during your visit so maybe it didn't come up. In the winter, I run my two 200,000 btu heaters until the substrate has warmed to a minimun of 40. See you soon, George
Circle-D Posted: Dec 06, 2006 06:17 AM	Yes George, I took notes and upon checking back to them you are right, 40 degree min. I guess I better do some more studying before I write that check.By the way, nice video of the open cell in the ceiling.
Posted: Dec 15, 2006 07:22 AM	i have less trouble with open cells to about 20 degrees,,, closed cells think anything below 40 degrees is cold,,,spraying without added heat this week at 35 degrees startup with 50 in the afternoons...overhead and sides,,,with no drip or thermal cracks/checks... remember: hose heat is to MAINTAIN heat,,,not to make heat...use a stick thermo on your hose(thru insulation layer) at the whip...it will read about 15 degrees below fluid temp in the hose..then you know where you are at...pump up the resin heater to a "no-drip" status with good sprayability (nice,full pattern,,,no streaming, dripping,,,narrow mess) not being to hot to prevent up to a 2" build with out "blowing-it-off"... do not cook your iso...the vapors produced can be a bit funky...i stop heat at 125 max ever,,and i heat the drum with a band heater,,,i dont cook the drum,,,,, reduce your tip size to achieve better fluid impingment as well as cranking up the pressures at startup to get good impingement,,bring temps and pressures down as things "warm up" to whatever your pattern dictates... need more coffee... highho highho its off to foam we go....
Posted: Dec 15, 2006 10:07 PM	i use motocross goggles with tear-offs. i think i have scott goggles, and i buy a 20 pack off replacements for about $8. that 100 for $10 sounds pretty good though. I usually cut up a pair of socks to get the thumb strap getup, i use cheap suits and the tear after a while.
jim valdez Posted: Dec 21, 2006 05:51 PM	i shot in Rangely Co outside temp started at 40 deg. dropped down to 30 deg. before i could finnish i did'nt have a bit of problems with foam pulling away. i use ucsc polar pro, substrate was metal, and i wear painters sox under my mask then i pull my tyvek hood over the straps of my mask to keep straps clean...jjj