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Posted: Mar 17, 2007 07:36 PM	What trailer size do people have? What size and style trailer are you running? Length, width, height, v-front, dual/tri axle, gooseneck/tag etc. What would you do different if there was a "next" time? Thanks, Tim! Granite State Spray Foam Co.
Posted: Mar 17, 2007 10:05 PM	20' bumber hitch, 2-3500lb axles. when i build another it will be a 28' gooseneck.
Gerry Wagoner Posted: Mar 17, 2007 11:04 PM	30' Gooseneck & tag. olger
Posted: Mar 17, 2007 11:07 PM	Olger, You have a 30' tag trailer? That must be fun to manuever Tim Granite State Spray Foam Co.
Gerry Wagoner Posted: Mar 18, 2007 08:44 AM	Hi Tim. Actually we get along fine with it. The additional room is a real benefit as well. It doesn't track as straight as the 5th wheel on the road, but it does ok. 2-8k axles. olger
quentin Posted: Mar 20, 2007 02:22 PM	I'm looking at an 8.5 by 20ft car hauler with twin 6000lb axles for mine. Gooseneck not 5th wheel though and I think it should be sufficient to start out I figure. Advantage is the ability to hold the weight and with a ramp it will be easier to get equipment in and out. Any opinions on that ideas? As to the rest, I am looking at a Glascraft setup using the Guardian A5, Probler gun with the rest pretty open. Doing the work myself I can get it all rolling and have some operating capitol to float me the first few months for about $35,000.
Posted: Mar 20, 2007 08:05 PM	I don't think you need 8.5' wide. I have 8' wide and that is more than sufficient. It is tough to see around as it is never mind trying to negotiate some of these jobsites. I originally thought a ramp door would be the way to go for the reason your suggested. I have changed my mind however. With a ramp door it is either all the way open or all the way closed. If it is raining or snowing out and you need the door open it is going to get wet and slippery. If it is windy out and you need the door open stuff will be blowing all over the place. With 2 barn doors, you can open one or both from part way open to all the way, you have many options. I can see the benefit of using the door as a ramp, but I don't know how they would hold up to 500# drums or a forklift going up and down them. You can always build a ramp to use with the barn door options. As to a 20' car hauler gooseneck, is that 20 feet on the floor and 8 feet of gooseneck or 20 feet over all? I would consider 24' gooseneck to be the smallest you can go if you plan to use a generator. Chapter 2 later....sorry! Tim Granite State Spray Foam Co.
quentin Posted: Mar 20, 2007 09:47 PM	LOL, no rush. That is 20ft of floor. As to the ramp, since it is for a car hauler it better be sturdy since they make it for vehicles to run up and down! I thought about the barn doors and figured that putting a smaller utility only door in the side near it would be for solving those problems. Also there is the standard side door so I figured that would be sufficient. Something like a 1/2 ht door in the back near the ramp and then an 8"x8" access door to run the hoses through so the heat and cooling setup doesn't have to work hard when there is a big opening. Heck, if I do it right it can even be done in the ramp door strong enough for the barrels and etc. Anyone else try this kind of setup or does it seem impractical? Oh, ignore the gooseneck, I was looking at them while posting and did a cross brain flatuance as a result. Here is the line I am looking at. http://www.united-trailers.com/Uploads/ProductLit/Lit_40.pdf
Posted: Mar 20, 2007 10:00 PM	How about a barn door within the ramp door, now that would be slick! I think a dutch door in the mechanical room would be a good idea too. I was thinking about that today while working. I was in the city and needed the door open for ventilation, but closed for security. It got my wheels spinning. Tim Granite State Spray Foam Co.
quentin Posted: Mar 20, 2007 10:03 PM	It would be hard to do and have it strong enough to be useful. The engineer in my blood thinks it would be a real challenge to do. Feel free to cuss at my father and grandfather for that one since they were engineers. Now a ramp door that you pull up OVER barn doors is readily doable. To access the barn doors you have to have the ramp down though. Of course the setup I was thinking of also looks at security too. That is why a small 8x8 access door. You can run the hose and gun through it and have the rest locked up if you need due t the area or etc.
Raymond Brooks Posted: Mar 21, 2007 07:05 AM	We use a ramp rear door with a 2'x2' dog door on the curbside to run the hose out of. 8" sq door will be way too small. It works great for temp control and security of rig while everybody is in/on the building. We are using a 7x19 Vnose w/ramp front and rear. I find that to be plenty large and extremely easy to tow. I would think a 28' Gooseneck is overkill. I don't do roofs, though. Am I missing something?
Posted: Mar 21, 2007 08:30 AM	I have a 4"x4" door in the back for the hose to pass through. It is plenty large enough, the hose is only 2" in diameter. The only other thing I need to pass through is the supplied air hose which is about 3/4". I do have barn doors so I don't actually have to pass the hoses through with the gun attached. I can pull my hose out, then close the door over the hose which allows me to have such a small door! Tim Granite State Spray Foam Co.
quentin Posted: Mar 21, 2007 03:20 PM	I only plan to pass hoses though it and very few people could fit through a space that small. It also should be big enough to pass the gun through with the hoses attached to it if needed was my thinking. Ok, SOME can fit through it like me but that is one tight squeeze and I can pop my shoulders out of joint to do stuff like that.
Posted: Mar 21, 2007 07:24 PM	I only say smaller is better because the bigger the door opening the more potential for cold air to come in the trailer during the winter when you are trying to keep it warm. With a ramp door I could see the need for a larger opening because you need to get the gun through as well. Tim Granite State Spray Foam Co.

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Comments

Posted: Mar 17, 2007 07:36 PM

What trailer size do people have?

What size and style trailer are you running? Length, width, height, v-front, dual/tri axle, gooseneck/tag etc.

What would you do different if there was a "next" time?

Thanks, Tim!
Granite State Spray Foam Co.

Posted: Mar 17, 2007 10:05 PM

20' bumber hitch, 2-3500lb axles. when i build another it will be a 28' gooseneck.

Gerry Wagoner

Posted: Mar 17, 2007 11:04 PM

30'

Gooseneck & tag.

olger

Posted: Mar 17, 2007 11:07 PM

Olger,

You have a 30' tag trailer?

That must be fun to manuever

Tim
Granite State Spray Foam Co.

Gerry Wagoner

Posted: Mar 18, 2007 08:44 AM

Hi Tim. Actually we get along fine with it. The additional room is a real benefit as well. It doesn't track as straight as the 5th wheel on the road, but it does ok.

2-8k axles.

olger

quentin

Posted: Mar 20, 2007 02:22 PM

I'm looking at an 8.5 by 20ft car hauler with twin 6000lb axles for mine. Gooseneck not 5th wheel though and I think it should be sufficient to start out I figure. Advantage is the ability to hold the weight and with a ramp it will be easier to get equipment in and out.

Any opinions on that ideas?

As to the rest, I am looking at a Glascraft setup using the Guardian A5, Probler gun with the rest pretty open. Doing the work myself I can get it all rolling and have some operating capitol to float me the first few months for about $35,000.

Posted: Mar 20, 2007 08:05 PM

I don't think you need 8.5' wide. I have 8' wide and that is more than sufficient. It is tough to see around as it is never mind trying to negotiate some of these jobsites.

I originally thought a ramp door would be the way to go for the reason your suggested. I have changed my mind however. With a ramp door it is either all the way open or all the way closed. If it is raining or snowing out and you need the door open it is going to get wet and slippery. If it is windy out and you need the door open stuff will be blowing all over the place. With 2 barn doors, you can open one or both from part way open to all the way, you have many options.

I can see the benefit of using the door as a ramp, but I don't know how they would hold up to 500# drums or a forklift going up and down them. You can always build a ramp to use with the barn door options.

As to a 20' car hauler gooseneck, is that 20 feet on the floor and 8 feet of gooseneck or 20 feet over all? I would consider 24' gooseneck to be the smallest you can go if you plan to use a generator.

Chapter 2 later....sorry!

Tim
Granite State Spray Foam Co.

quentin

Posted: Mar 20, 2007 09:47 PM

LOL, no rush.

That is 20ft of floor. As to the ramp, since it is for a car hauler it better be sturdy since they make it for vehicles to run up and down!

I thought about the barn doors and figured that putting a smaller utility only door in the side near it would be for solving those problems. Also there is the standard side door so I figured that would be sufficient. Something like a 1/2 ht door in the back near the ramp and then an 8"x8" access door to run the hoses through so the heat and cooling setup doesn't have to work hard when there is a big opening. Heck, if I do it right it can even be done in the ramp door strong enough for the barrels and etc.

Anyone else try this kind of setup or does it seem impractical?

Oh, ignore the gooseneck, I was looking at them while posting and did a cross brain flatuance as a result.

Here is the line I am looking at.

http://www.united-trailers.com/Uploads/ProductLit/Lit_40.pdf

Posted: Mar 20, 2007 10:00 PM

How about a barn door within the ramp door, now that would be slick! I think a dutch door in the mechanical room would be a good idea too. I was thinking about that today while working. I was in the city and needed the door open for ventilation, but closed for security. It got my wheels spinning.

Tim
Granite State Spray Foam Co.

quentin

Posted: Mar 20, 2007 10:03 PM

It would be hard to do and have it strong enough to be useful. The engineer in my blood thinks it would be a real challenge to do. Feel free to cuss at my father and grandfather for that one since they were engineers.

Now a ramp door that you pull up OVER barn doors is readily doable. To access the barn doors you have to have the ramp down though.

Of course the setup I was thinking of also looks at security too. That is why a small 8x8 access door. You can run the hose and gun through it and have the rest locked up if you need due t the area or etc.

Raymond Brooks

Posted: Mar 21, 2007 07:05 AM

We use a ramp rear door with a 2'x2' dog door on the curbside to run the hose out of. 8" sq door will be way too small. It works great for temp control and security of rig while everybody is in/on the building.

We are using a 7x19 Vnose w/ramp front and rear. I find that to be plenty large and extremely easy to tow. I would think a 28' Gooseneck is overkill. I don't do roofs, though. Am I missing something?

Posted: Mar 21, 2007 08:30 AM

I have a 4"x4" door in the back for the hose to pass through. It is plenty large enough, the hose is only 2" in diameter. The only other thing I need to pass through is the supplied air hose which is about 3/4". I do have barn doors so I don't actually have to pass the hoses through with the gun attached. I can pull my hose out, then close the door over the hose which allows me to have such a small door!

Tim
Granite State Spray Foam Co.

quentin

Posted: Mar 21, 2007 03:20 PM

I only plan to pass hoses though it and very few people could fit through a space that small. It also should be big enough to pass the gun through with the hoses attached to it if needed was my thinking.

Ok, SOME can fit through it like me but that is one tight squeeze and I can pop my shoulders out of joint to do stuff like that.

Posted: Mar 21, 2007 07:24 PM

I only say smaller is better because the bigger the door opening the more potential for cold air to come in the trailer during the winter when you are trying to keep it warm. With a ramp door I could see the need for a larger opening because you need to get the gun through as well.

Tim
Granite State Spray Foam Co.

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